Do hot tubs use a lot of power? Short answer: sometimes, but not always. It all depends on how they’re built, how often you soak, and how well you keep the heat in. Acrylic hot tubs are great at holding warmth, rotomoulded tubs are light on the wallet but heavier on bills, while wooden tubs? Gorgeous to look at, but not the most energy-savvy. If you’re curious about running costs or just want to trim your next bill, this guide has you covered. Let’s break down what’s draining your electricity and what you can do about it.
This is your hot tub’s biggest energy guzzler. The heater’s job is to keep your water warm, even when it's freezing outside. Most run at around 2 to 3 kW, switching on and off to maintain your set temperature.
If your tub loses heat quickly, that heater will run far more often. Poor insulation = higher bills.
Your tub’s pumps keep water moving and jets bubbling. The smaller circulation pump runs quietly for hours to filter your water, using modest energy. The jet pump, however, packs a punch and uses more power when switched on.
A quick soak with jets? Fine. Long, bubbly sessions every night? That adds up fast.
Things like LED lights, Bluetooth speakers, and digital panels all use power, but very little compared to your heater or pumps.
Unless you’re running a full-on light show every evening, these extras won’t break the bank.
Think of insulation as your hot tub’s winter coat. Good insulation keeps the heat in and the electricity bill down. Acrylic tubs often come with multi-layer insulation, while cheaper tubs may lack this entirely.
If heat escapes quickly, your heater’s working overtime.
It’s 2°C outside, but your tub’s set at 38°C? That’s a huge temperature gap. The colder the air, the more energy it takes to keep things steamy.
Dropping the temp to 36°C can still feel great and save you cash.
A bigger tub means more water to heat and more water to keep warm. A two-seater tub takes far less power than a party-size seven-seater.
Wooden tubs, which tend to be large and less insulated, can be the priciest to run.
Jets don’t just feel good, they feed off electricity. A quick 15-minute soak with jets won’t cost much, but using them daily for long periods adds up.
If you're soaking solo, do you need full power jets?
Without a solid thermal cover, your heat floats away. Covers trap warmth and cut down the heater’s workload.
Worn-out, waterlogged covers? Bin them and upgrade. Your bills will thank you.
Wind whisks heat away from your tub’s surface and shell. If your spa is out in the open, you’re losing heat fast.
Position it near a wall, fence, or in a pergola to create a warm bubble of protection.
Old heaters and pumps aren't just slow, they’re power-hungry. Newer models come with better tech and smarter energy use.
If your hot tub’s a decade old, a few upgrades can lower your electricity bill without replacing the whole thing.
Each part of your hot tub has a power rating in kilowatts. Heaters are usually 2 to 3 kW, jet pumps range from 1.5 to 2.5 kW, and circulation pumps sit around 0.5 kW.
Knowing these numbers helps you plan your energy use.
Electricity is charged in kilowatt-hours (kWh). If a 3 kW heater runs for one hour, it uses 3 kWh. Multiply that by your tariff, around 28p per kWh in the UK, and you’ll know the cost.
Use a smart meter or energy calculator to track it more closely.
A well-insulated tub in summer might cost £1–£2 per day. In winter? More like £2–£4, depending on your setup.
That adds up to £30–£120 a month, or £400–£900 a year, assuming moderate use and decent insulation.
Inflatable hot tubs are cheap to buy, but expensive to run. With little insulation, they struggle to hold heat.
Acrylic tubs may cost more upfront, but are designed to retain heat better, saving you more long term. Wooden tubs? Great for rustic vibes, but often the most power-hungry of the bunch.
Insulation is everything. The better it is, the less work your heater has to do. Look for tubs with full-foam or multi-layer thermal insulation.
You’ll feel the difference in warmth and your bill.
Don’t let heat escape overnight. A tight-fitting thermal cover is one of the easiest energy-saving hacks.
Replace covers when they get soggy, saggy, or worn out.
Lower temps during weekdays or between soaks can save a surprising amount. You don’t need it at full blast all the time.
Try dropping the setting to 36°C, still hot, just cheaper.
Air source heat pumps pull warmth from the air and use less energy to heat your tub. It’s an upfront cost, but you’ll see savings if you use your hot tub regularly.
They’re quiet, efficient, and work even in cold climates.
Think of it as a cosy layer that sits right on the water. A thermal blanket reduces surface heat loss and boosts insulation.
It’s affordable, easy to use, and makes a real difference.
Even light breezes can steal heat. Wind barriers like fences, shrubs, or screens create a warmer microclimate around your spa.
It’s a simple fix that can lower energy use every day.
Clean filters, working pumps, and a responsive heater all contribute to smoother, more efficient performance.
Neglect maintenance, and your tub starts costing more.
So, how does your spa stack up? A hot tub uses about as much energy as a dishwasher running daily, or a tumble dryer used three times a week.
Not cheap, but not outrageous either, especially if you follow a few energy-saving tricks.
So, do hot tubs use a lot of power? They can, but they don’t have to.
The secret lies in the setup: great insulation, smart heating, and a few tweaks to your routine. Acrylic hot tubs are usually the most efficient, rotomoulded types sit in the middle, and wooden tubs need the most TLC to stay warm.
With a bit of strategy, your spa can be a cosy retreat—not a power-hungry monster. Choose the right model, keep it well covered, and keep your energy use in check. That way, every soak feels like a win for both comfort and your wallet.
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